The overall appearance of the Grand Basset Griffon Vendeen is to be totally natural with only minor trimming to accentuate the dog’s form. The outer coat is crisp and harsh. The under coat is thick and short.
The coat is made up of a wiry outer coat with a thick under coat. The harsh, outer guard coat is normally between 1 and 2 inches in length. The extended “eyebrows” and the typical beard give the Grand Basset Griffon his characteristic tousled appearance.
Grooming Summary:
- Slight indication of triangular brows over eyes but the eye is not fully covered by the eyebrow.
- Full Beard
- Head is left natural with long ears. Pluck unruly stray hairs with fingers.
- Trim nails as short as possible or grind.
- Remove shedding coat by brushing with a firm slicker brush or carding. Lightly finger pluck or hand strip exceptionally long guard coat only if it distracts from the outline.
- Pluck long hairs from the tail to balance with body.
- Lightly clip sanitary areas: Under tail and tummy with #10 blade.
- Neaten undercarriage line lightly.
- Neaten hocks.
- Shave pads and scissor feet round.
Bathing and Drying
Use a regular, all-purpose shampoo. If the skin is exceptionally dry, apply a light skin conditioner, otherwise, bypass this step because the conditioner will soften the coat. That is undesirable for this coat type.
To be thorough, sink your fingers deeply into the coat while scrubbing. A rubber curry with cone-type teeth also does an excellent job of working the shampoo right to the skin and lifting dirt and debris to the surface where it can easily be rinsed away.
A natural bristle scrub brush works very well on the shorter coat, especially around the feet and legs. With either a rubber curry or a scrub brush, scrub in the direction of the coat growth.
A number of drying methods can be used on the Grand Basset Griffon’s coat. Start with a vigorous hand towel drying. Follow with high-velocity drying in the direction of the coat growth to remove excess moisture and to blow out the bulk of the loose fur, using the most powerful setting the dog will tolerate.
When no moisture is being sprayed from the fur and/or no loose coat is being blown out, another drying method may be used. Many stylists remove the condenser cone and continue with the high-velocity dryer, holding the end of the nozzle close to the skin.
Work the air in a small circular fashion, with the natural lay of the coat, until the coat is dry in that area. Drying may be continued with natural air-drying or kennel drying using a low temperature setting. Or, finish drying with a heat-stand dryer while brushing the coat.
Blanket drying also works well with this coat type if the coat is being hand-stripped. Once the bulk of the moisture is removed, use a fine brush or comb to brush the coat in the direction you want the hair to lie.
Drape a large towel over the body of the dog. Pin the towel around the neck area and under the belly to flatten the coat. This drying technique will ensure the coat conforms to the natural outline of the dog.
Whatever process or combination of processes is used, drying is not finished until the coat is completely cool and dry to the touch.
Brushing the Coat
Use a rubber curry, shedding blade, undercoat rake, pumice stone, carding tool, fine stripping knife, slicker brush or natural bristled brush to remove any remaining loose coat or tangles.
Be careful when using any tool with metal teeth or bristles. A heavy hand or too much repetition in an area can cause cuts and brush burns.
Brushing is not finished until all loose fur is removed, or when it becomes difficult to remove more than a half a brush full after repeated brushing.
Carding the Coat
Typical tools used when it comes to carding:
- Pumice stone
- Fine-toothed stripping knife that is pulled through the coat
- Undercoat rake
- Fine blade, such as #40
Removal of the soft undercoat allows the topcoat to lie closer to the natural outline of the dog. Promotes profuse harsh outer coat, creates a rich coat color and protects the skin.
Hand-Stripping
Using your fingers, a carding tool or a stripping knife, pull out a few hairs at a time to shape the coat, accentuating the natural outline of the dog. Work methodically, pulling small amounts of coat at a time, always working in the direction of the coat growth.
Proper hand-stripping removes hair with a gentle momentum and rhythm, not brute force, which is uncomfortable for both groomer and dog. The wrist stays locked in a neutral position while the rhythmic movement stems from the shoulder, not the wrist or elbow.
In general, the main body coat is easy to remove. Most pets do not mind the plucking process. The cheeks, throat and private areas may be more sensitive, requiring thinning shears or clippers. Leave enough coat to be between 1 to 2 inches long.
Head
Leave the coat longer on the muzzle. Lightly hand-strip or pluck the top skull, throat and cheeks. Leave triangles of coat above each eye to form the moderate eyebrows that accentuate the eye area. Ears are left long and natural.
Feet and Hocks
Trim the pads with a close cutting blade ranging from a #15 to a #40. Use a very light touch to clean the pads of long hair. Tidy the outside edge of the foot, if needed, with small detailing shears.
If the hocks have longer coat, trim lightly with thinning shears to show a neat, clean area.
Suggested Tools
- Nail Trimmers
- Styptic Powder
- Ear Powder
- Ear Cleaning Solution
- Cotton Balls
- Hemostat
- Clippers
- Slicker Brush
- Greyhound Comb
- Undercoat Rake
- Pumice Stone
- Carding Tools
- Stripping Knives
- Straight Shears
- Curved Shears
- Small Detailing Shears
- Thinning Shears
- Dematting Tools
- Blade options: #40, #15, #10
