The coat of a Maltese is of good length, straight, silky, never woolly or crimped, and without an undercoat. It is always pure white, but slight lemon markings are permissible. The tail is well feathered This breed needs a lot of grooming to keep the long, silky coat in perfect order. The hair is parted along the middle from the skull to the tail and needs constant grooming. The topknot is tied back in one or two bows.
Lhasa Apso is a jaunty and proud little dog, is an impressive sight when in full show coat, set off with a beautifully plumed tail. The coat is long, heavy, straight and hard, neither woolly nor silky. Grooming is required on a regular basis to keep the coat free from tangles and mats. The hair on the head falls down the sides of the face, but is usually tied up when not being shown.
Here’s some advice on how to groom the coat of a Mastiff. The Mastiff’s coat is short and close-lying, but not too fine over the shoulders, the neck and the back. The color is apricot-fawn, silver-fawn, fawn or dark-fawn brindle. Muzzle, ears and nose are black.
Grooming the coat of a Rottweiler at home doesn’t require special skills, but will require regular brushing at least three days a week to keep the coat at its best. The Rottweiler has a shiny double coat, which consists of a topcoat and an undercoat.
The topcoat is of medium length, coarse and flat. The undercoat is essential on the neck and thighs but should not show through the topcoat. The hair is also permitted to be a little longer on the back of forelegs and the breeching.
An Anatolian Shepherd has a relatively short, dense coat with a thick undercoat. It is flat, close-lying and neither fluffy nor wavy. The coat is slightly longer and thicker at the neck, shoulder and tail, with no feathering on the ears or legs. This double coat is designed to protect the working dog against the extremes of temperature it faces on the bleak high plateau of central Turkey.
The West Highland White Terrier’s double coat needs ongoing attention to keep it smart and clean. The outer coat consists of 2 inches (5 cm) of harsh hair, which is curl-free. The undercoat, which resembles fur, is short, soft and close.
West Highland White Terriers are stripped by hand or knife, thinned or clipped, depending on their coat and if they are to be exhibited.
There are various ways of stripping a dog. Some breeds are hand-stripped, some are stripped with a knife; others are rolled, thinned with thinning shears, or scissored, clipped, or both. Using clippers on some types of coats ruins the natural growth of the hair, and the dog may become very woolly. For the pet dog, this may not matter, and it certainly saves time for the groomer and is less expensive for the owner.
The whole body of the Black Russian Terrier is covered with a thick, tough coat, with decorative hair well defined on the head and limbs. The mustache and beard are features, and give the muzzle a blunt, rectangular shape. The hair is rough and thick, with a fold, which, when pulled straight, will make the hair appear longer.
The body hair is shortened to about 2 to 4 inches. The front and rear legs are well protected by slightly longer rough hair. The color is black, or black with an insignificant amount of gray hair.
The body, ears and tail of a Curly Coated Retriever are covered with tight, crisp curls, lying close to the skin, while the face and muzzle are smooth-haired. The color is black or liver. This unique coat needs little grooming, but does require specialist treatment, sometimes on a weekly basis, to keep it at its best. It should not have bare patches when nurtured.
Different injuries can occur with your dog while grooming her. Skin injuries can occur during clipping or shaving. Be careful when clipping or shaving dogs that have extremely matted coats because mats are usually very close to the skin. The closer your tools get to the skin, the more chances there will be for a cut or bruise. In the case of a small cut, rinse the area to remove loose hair, pat dry, and apply a small amount of styptic powder to stop the bleeding. It is important to keep the dog calm.
The effectiveness of the following solutions to different substance will depend on the kind of hair your dog has. Harsher coats usually will be easier to clean up because the hair is stronger and typically its structure will naturally repel a lot of the most common substances, keeping them on the surface.
The coat of an Australian Shepherd is of medium length and texture, straight to wavy, weather-resistant with undercoat.
The hair is short on the head, ears, front of the forelegs and below the hock joints. The backs of the legs are moderately feathered. The mane, described as moderate, is more pronounced in males than bitches.
Dog owners and groomers should be able to recognize when something is wrong with the dog’s skin and coat. And to take action when it comes to coat and skin problems.
Often, these maladies are first detected by the groomer or owner and consequently dealt with before the dog is suffering unduly. Checking the dog on a regular basis will save valuable time and expense.
These sacs or “scent glands” are situated on either side of the anus. They are inversions of skin where it joins the end of the digestive tract. The cavity formed is quite large and collects fluid. If it becomes blocked, the dog may show various signs of irritation:
- Rubbing his bottom along the floor
- Biting at the area
The coat of a Wheaten Terrier when natural, is soft and silky. Is non-shedding so requires regular grooming to remove dead hair and to prevent matting. It is neither woolly nor wiry, and is loosely waved or curly. If curly, the coat has large, light and loose curls. The coat should not standoff, but flow and fall naturally. The coat is abundant all over the body and equally profuse on the head and legs. The length of leg coat should be sufficient to give good balance to the length of coat on the head and body. The color is wheaten, but youngsters may have dark markings, which should clear with maturity.
Some groomers believe that the idea of clipping is to shave so close to the skin that it removes all the hair. It is cruel to do this. Clipping so closely can leave the skin red and grazed. Enough hair should be clipped away to create a clean, tidy appearance. The point of having different-sized blades is to give the groomer the opportunity to predetermine the length of hair to be left. Dark faces can take a closer blade, while white faces can be severely grazed by a very fine blade, leaving horrific scalding which leads to weeping sores.
A trimmed breed, the Lakeland Terrier has a coat that is dense, harsh and weather resistant, with a good undercoat. It requires regular grooming and brushing, as well as a complete professional strip twice a year. For the show ring, the coat will probably be worked on twice a week to keep it in tiptop show condition and to ensure it is never out of coat.
Regular brushing is required to keep the Irish Terrier looking smart, and the coat clean and healthy. Use a slicker brush, terrier palm pad and a stripping stone, and brush with the lie of the coat. The coat of this breed is a distinctive red, harsh and wiry, and has a broken appearance. It should be free from softness or silkiness, and the length should not hide the outline of the body, particularly the hindquarters.
There are two varieties of Fox Terrier — Smooth and Wire. The Smooth coat does not require so much grooming, but will benefit from a bath and a good brushing with a hound glove to remove dead hairs.
The Wire variety has a dense, wiry texture of about 3/4 inches (2 cm) on the shoulder to 11/2 inches (4 cm) on the withers, back, ribs and quarters, with an undercoat of short, softer hair.
The Pekingese’s coat is long and straight, and has a profuse mane extending beyond its shoulders, which forms a cape around the neck. The top coat is coarse, with a thick undercoat. Feathering on the ears is profuse, as on the legs and tail. All colors and markings are permissible.
The corded coat of the Hungarian Puli is a natural formation. Over time, the weather-resistant topcoat becomes entwined with the softer undercoat, forming cords, of which there are various types. The fully corded coat takes a long time to develop. For example, a floor-length coat can take up to five years to grow. Therefore, it is a must to remember that the first part of the cord will be there for a considerable time!
The coat of the Irish Water Spaniel is dark liver in color with a purplish tint or bloom peculiar to the breed
and is referred to as puce-liver. The coat on the body is dense with tight, crisp ringlets, which cover all parts of its body except the muzzle, the front of the neck, and the first 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) of the tail.
Here’s some of the most common dog grooming difficulties what many groomers experience when handling dogs. To avoid these difficulties, get your dog to get used to being handled and groomed from an early age. Some groomers have been trained to trim, but they haven’t necessarily had sufficient experience with dogs to understand fully why they act – or react – the way they do. A “doggie” background really helps – and working with dogs every day soon provides plenty of experience.
Cords can grow to an amazing length, sometimes longer than the dog. To create cords, the hair is never combed, but is continuously rolled and twisted with the fingertips, applying an oil to encourage the process if required. (Paraffin and Vaseline were used for this, once upon a time, but today we have special grooming oils that are non greasy and serve the purpose very well, being less messy. Ask for details at your grooming supplies store.)
Grooming the Chinese Crested can be done in two different ways, depending of their coat type. The coat comes in two varietes: the Hairless and the Powderpuff. The Hairless has a crest of hair on its head, extending partway down the neck. There are socks covering its toes, as well as a plume on the tail. The rest of the body is hairless. The Powderpuff is covered entirely with long, soft hair (referred to as a “veil”).
Here’s a few tips on how to groom your Afghan Hound. The coat should always be allowed to develop naturally, and is long and very finely textured on the ribs, forequarters, hindquarters and flanks. In mature dogs, the short saddle hair along the back occurs naturally and should not be formed by clipping or trimming.
MAINTENANCE: The coat does not require trimming in the true sense, when it comes to Bolognese. But needs care and attention, with regular combing to prevent tangles from forming. These dogs are shown in their natural state, but sometimes pet dogs are trimmed (scissored), as with the family pet Bichon Frise and Poodle. They are bathed and conditioned frequently, and sometimes put into a “lamb”-type clip. Pet dogs are often trimmed with a snap-on comb for an allover uniform length.
When should you start grooming your dog? From day one is the simple answer. Choose a suitable brush for your dog or puppy’s coat type, and spend a little time each day getting the dog used to being brushed. For most breeds of dog, it is a simple task to put the puppy on a table and brush it. Even with the heavier breeds, it is useful to put the dog on a table to begin with, while carrying out routine brushing, combing, checking ears, eyes and mouth, as well as ensuring the anal area is clean and completely free of foreign matter or feces.
The health of a dog’s coat is influenced by many factors. Genetically, a dog can inherit coat quality from its predecessors, but there are many other influences, such as diet, exercise, the dog’s housing and bedding, as well as its grooming regime. All coats can be improved with just a little effort and consideration of the dog’s individual needs.
Although they don’t have long flowing hair that requires daily brushing to eliminate mats and tangles, a Basset Hound still needs regular brushing—especially when he is shedding (which for some Bassets may seem like a year-round event). You should brush your Basset once a week. Regular brushing will not only contribute to the health of the skin and coat, because it distributes the natural oils through the coat, but it will help diminish shedding problems.
The rule of thumb should be to only bathe your Basset Hound when he is truly dirty or has body odor. Too-frequent baths can do more harm than good, because they can dry the skin’s natural oils, which can lead to scratching, then bacterial infections and “hot spots.”If you’re a fastidious owner who insists on bathing your Basset more than once a month, be sure you use a shampoo that has aloe or other skin-conditioning ingredients, and follow up with a good skin-conditioning coat dressing.
Although it’s probably the very least pleasant aspect of dog ownership, it’s very important that you check your dog’s anal glands regularly. If you see your Basset scooting around on his rear end, it’s very likely that an anal gland irritation or impaction exists. If left untreated, these glands can become infected quickly, which is not only very painful for the dog, but requires treatment that you both will likely find quite unpleasant.
The ears of the Basset are not conductive to good air circulation, which makes them prone to painful and severe ear infections. Keeping the ears clean as part of a regular grooming session can go a long way toward eliminating health problems that originate in the ear canal.
Shelties are widely recognized and admired for their stunning coats and lovely colors. But a gorgeous coat is not created by grooming overnight, and not every Sheltie can grow and maintain a fabulous, sensational coat. A beautiful coat is the result of excellent health care, high-quality nutrition, and the right combination of genes (inheritance).
You do not need much equipment to keep your Sheltland Sheepdog looking and feeling his best, but the equipment you use should be good quality. Whenever is possible, invest in the best tools you can. Good equipment will give better results, last longer, and make grooming a lot easier.
It is important to realize the importance of good dental health for your dog. Brushing your Basset’s teeth will help to keep down oral odors and keep your dog’s full set of teeth. Periodontal disease not only harms the teeth and gums, but severe cases involve bacterial toxins that are absorbed into the blood supply and can cause permanent, even fatal damage to the heart and kidneys. In lesser cases, symptoms of periodontal disease can include loose teeth, loss of appetite, bad smelling breath, and diarrhea and vomiting.
Although some dogs keep their nails worn down without help from you, your Basset Hound needs to have his nails trimmed on a regular basis. Nails that are not kept short will grow too long and become irritating and painful to the dog. A longer nail is much more prone to being pulled out if it catches on something, which can be excruciating for the dog. Being left too long can not only damage the nails, but can cause the feet to splay or spread, and nails can actually curl around and grow into a dog’s pads.
As soon as you bring your new Cavalier puppy home, begin his grooming routine. The grooming needs of a puppy are very small compared with those of an adult, but this important time spent together can benefit both of you. Regular grooming gives you an opportunity to check your dog’s skin, ears, and eyes. It is also your chance to give him a once over and a basic health check. If possible, have a grooming session at least one or two times per month, or more often if you desire.
When all of the fur has been examined, and every mat has been removed, you are ready to bathe your Cavalier. Any good quality shampoo and conditioner that is formulated for use on dogs is sufficient, but some are definitely better than others. Experiment to see which products you and your dog prefer. You can also get some recommendation from your vet or groomer.
Cavaliers are known to have a single coat, which means that they do not produce the dense type of undercoat that breeds like Huskies and German Shepherds do. Some of them do not produce an undercoat at all, but most adult Cavaliers will produce at least a small amount of undercoat. This undercoat needs to be removed, or combed out, during grooming because the fuzzier texture of the undercoat leads to matting and tangling, particularly behind the ears and in the long feathering.
Because Cavaliers have long ears that hang over the opening of the ear canal, they probably have more than their fair share of ear problems. This is because air is unable to circulate, which creates a moist climate that is a perfect breeding ground for infectious organisms. Regular and careful examination of the ears is necessary to prevent ear diseases. Preventative care is also essential.
If you walk your Cavalier regularly on rough pavement, you may never need to trim his nails. But if he spends most of his time in the house or in the yard, you’ll need to trim his nails once a week or once every two weeks. Long nails can make it hard for your dog to walk comfortably, and very long nails can curl around and puncture paw pads.
Keeping your dog’s teeth clean should be part of your grooming routine. Regularly brushing your Cavalier’s teeth can guard against health problems because plaque can build up and eventually harden into tartar that continues to collect on tooth surfaces. Tartar causes gum abscesses, and bacteria from those abscesses can circulate through your dog’s blood system causing heart, liver, or kidney problems.
The grooming routine for a show dog is only slightly different from that of a pet, but those differences are important. When your Cavalier walks into the ring, the first thing that registers will look at, is the beautiful, healthy coat. A show dog’s coat must be kept in meticulous condition. Of utmost importance for Cavaliers is maintaining a stain-free coat and well-groomed ears.
There may be times when your Cavalier needs to be groomed and you’d rather not do it yourself. Hiring a professional groomer can solve that problem. To find a good, reliable groomer, ask your veterinarian, family, and friends for recommendations. Most groomers are kind and gentle with dogs, but it’s always best to get referrals. It also helps to know what to look for when choosing one. Here are some questions to ask:
Regular brushing will be necessary whether your Papillon sports the long, silky hair or a shorter coat. No matter how plentiful, your dog’s coat will inevitably trap dirt and other debris within it. Brushing removes dead hair and dander. It also helps to keep your dog’s fur from shedding all over your clothes and furniture.
The most effective way to keep your Papillon clean is to bathe him often, but you may worry that shampooing too frequently will leave your dog’s skin dry and itchy. Rest assured that as long as you rinse your dog properly, this should not be
a problem—even if you bathe him as often as weekly. On the contrary, regular bathing will stimulate hair growth and prevent breakage.
The easiest way to cut your Papillon’s nails is by placing in standing position. Holding the foot, gently press on your dog’s paw pad to extend the toenail. Using your clippers, snip off just the hook-like end of the nail on a 45-degree angle. Remember, taking too little is better than cutting too much.
Although Papillons are not among the breeds most susceptible to ear infections, routine cleaning is the best way to ensure that your dog won’t suffer from this uncomfortable condition. An ideal time to clean your dog’s ears is either right before or immediately after his bath, but this should not be the only time you perform this important task. Ideally, you should clean your dog’s ears at least once a week.
Keeping your Papillon’s teeth clean and healthy will make life more pleasant for both you and your pet. Even small amounts of plaque and tartar can leave an otherwise delightful little dog with breath that could knock over a Great Dane. Additionally, good dental hygiene helps maintain good overall health.